Croatian Lakes, Coast & Castles
Our five-day journey through Croatia revealed the country’s remarkable diversity, from the cascading turquoise waterfalls of Plitvice Lakes to the historic walled city of Dubrovnik. With the freedom of a rental car picked up in Italy, we explored at our own pace, discovering UNESCO World Heritage sites like Diocletian’s Palace in Split and Dubrovnik’s perfectly preserved Old Town. Our adventures took us off the beaten path to hike Vidova Gora, the highest peak in the Adriatic islands, witness golden hour at the impressive new Pelješac Bridge, and even cross into Bosnia and Herzegovina to visit Mostar’s iconic Old Bridge. Each day presented a new facet of the region’s natural beauty and rich cultural heritage.
Our Trip Map
Our carefully planned route took us along Croatia’s stunning Dalmatian coast, with strategic inland detours that maximized our experience of the region. The drive itself became part of the adventure, offering spectacular views and the freedom to stop whenever a charming village or panoramic viewpoint caught our eye. After exploring the highlights shown on the map below, we completed our circuit back toward our starting point in Italy, having created a perfect loop through this beautiful corner of the Balkans.
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Activities
Accommodations
Daily Journal
We started our day at Plitvice Lakes National Park, gathering near Entrance 1 to study the topographical map. This UNESCO World Heritage site was our first major destination in Croatia, and we wanted to get our bearings before exploring. The orientation area provided a helpful overview of the park’s network of lakes, trails, and natural highlights. We took our time studying the layout, discussing which route would best showcase both the upper and lower lakes while giving us enough time to appreciate each area.
We continued our journey through Plitvice by exploring the stunning upper lakes region and making our way to the Great Waterfall (Veliki Slap). The waters here were an incredible shade of turquoise, cascading over limestone and chalk barriers to create a series of waterfalls throughout the landscape. We paused at several panoramic viewpoints to take in the magnificent water features surrounded by lush forest. The clarity of the water was remarkable – we could see straight to the bottom of many pools despite their depth.
We spent the afternoon walking along Plitvice’s wooden boardwalks winding directly over the crystal-clear waters of the lower lakes. These elevated pathways brought us incredibly close to the pristine aquamarine pools and smaller cascades. We stopped frequently at viewing platforms built into the boardwalks, giving us perfect vantage points to observe the unique limestone formations and vibrant underwater ecosystem below. The sound of rushing water accompanied us throughout this part of our trek, creating a peaceful soundtrack to our exploration.
We ended our day at Kozjačka Draga by Kozjak Lake, the largest in the Plitvice system. Here, we were treated to a special cultural experience as traditional Croatian musicians performed from a wooden boat on the water. Their melodies echoed across the tranquil lake as the late afternoon sun cast a warm glow over everything. After a full day of hiking and natural wonders, this authentic showcase of local heritage provided a perfect, serene conclusion to our first day exploring Plitvice.
We dedicated our morning to exploring the historic Klis Fortress, which rewarded us with breathtaking coastal panoramas from its strategic medieval position. As we climbed the stone staircases connecting multiple levels of the fortress, we discovered excellent vantage points for photos at every turn. The ancient fortification sits perched high above the surrounding landscape, and walking through its walls gave us a real appreciation for the defensive architecture that protected this region for centuries. The views stretched out impressively in all directions, making it clear why this position was so valuable throughout history.
Our plans took an unexpected turn when we noticed smoke in the vicinity of Stella Croatica. We had to pause our tour of the Klis area temporarily while the situation was assessed. This unplanned interruption gave us a moment to regroup before continuing with our day’s activities. The smoke was visible from where we stood, creating a brief moment of concern during our otherwise smooth journey.
We arrived at Diocletian’s Palace as evening was setting in, which turned out to be perfect timing. The UNESCO World Heritage site was beautifully illuminated with atmospheric lighting that highlighted the ancient stone architecture. We encountered several costumed performers throughout the complex, adding a living dimension to this remarkable piece of history. As we walked through the palace grounds in Split’s historic center, we marveled at the fascinating blend of Roman, medieval, and Renaissance influences that have shaped this architectural treasure since the 4th century. The evening atmosphere made exploring the ancient corridors and open spaces especially memorable.
We began our journey at Split’s bustling ferry terminal, where the morning air was filled with the scent of salt and a sense of adventure. The harbor around us buzzed with activity as we joined other passengers boarding the ferry bound for Brač island. As we prepared to depart, we took a moment to appreciate Split’s historic waterfront providing a stunning backdrop against the sparkling Adriatic waters. The excitement of island-hopping added an energetic start to our day.
Upon arriving in Supetar, Brač’s main port town, we were immediately charmed by its Mediterranean character. We enjoyed a leisurely walk along the palm-lined waterfront promenade, watching fishing boats and sleek yachts bob gently in the marina. The town’s stone buildings glowed warmly in the sunlight as we strolled past. We passed several inviting seaside cafés that offered perfect spots to soak in the relaxed island atmosphere and beautiful sea views, though we were eager to continue our exploration.
We tackled the trail to Vidova Gora, which winds through Mediterranean pine forests and rocky terrain. As the highest peak in the Adriatic islands, we knew the effort would be worthwhile, and we weren’t disappointed. Upon reaching the summit, we were rewarded with an absolutely breathtaking 360-degree panorama of the Croatian coastline. From this vantage point, we could see neighboring islands dotting the sapphire sea below. The visibility was excellent, and we spent quite some time at the top just taking in the expansive views that stretched far across the Adriatic.
Our return journey to Split offered us a different perspective of the Dalmatian coast. As the ferry approached the mainland, we watched Split’s iconic skyline come into view, dominated by Diocletian’s Palace and beautifully framed by the dramatic Mosor mountain range in the background. The late afternoon light cast a golden glow on the city’s limestone buildings, creating a picturesque scene as we bid farewell to our brief but memorable island visit.
We concluded our day with a visit to the impressive Pelješac Bridge during golden hour. This marvel of modern engineering spans the Mali Ston Bay and has only been open since 2022. As we admired the cable-stayed structure connecting the Croatian mainland with the Pelješac Peninsula, we learned it was built to eliminate the need to cross Bosnian territory when traveling along the coast. The timing of our visit couldn’t have been better – as the sun began to set, the bridge’s elegant silhouette stood dramatically against the colorful evening sky, providing a perfect finale to our day of Croatian coastal exploration.
We began our day with an immersive walk through Dubrovnik’s historic Old Town. The iconic Stradun welcomed us with its gleaming limestone pavement as we strolled along this main street running through the heart of the walled city. We visited the Žitnica rupe (Granary Museum), an interesting 16th-century building that once stored grain reserves for the Republic of Ragusa. Inside, we discovered fascinating insights into the city’s historical food storage systems and glimpses of daily life from centuries past. As we explored the area, we caught our first views of the magnificent Walls of Dubrovnik, the impressive stone fortifications that have protected the city since medieval times. The morning light brought out the texture and color of the ancient stones all around us.
We continued our exploration around Dubrovnik Cathedral, taking time to appreciate the architectural treasures in this area. The Church of St. George offered us a peaceful coastal setting with serene views of the Adriatic that provided a moment of calm during our busy day. Moving on, we were genuinely impressed by the magnificent Rector’s Palace, a stunning Gothic-Renaissance building that once housed the rector of the Republic of Ragusa. We wandered through its ornate stone carvings and elegant atrium, examining the historical artifacts that helped us understand Dubrovnik’s rich political and cultural heritage. The craftsmanship throughout the palace was extraordinary, evident in even the smallest architectural details.
In the afternoon, we dedicated ourselves to exploring Dubrovnik’s world-famous defensive structures. We entered through the impressive Pile Gate, the western entrance to the Old Town dating from 1537, before ascending to the Walls of Dubrovnik. Walking along the top of these massive stone fortifications that encircle the city gave us breathtaking panoramic views in every direction – terracotta rooftops stretched below us on one side and the azure Adriatic Sea extended to the horizon on the other. When we reached Fort Bokar, a cylindrical fortress designed to protect Pile Gate, we learned it’s considered one of the oldest casemented fortresses in Europe. The engineering and strategic design of these centuries-old structures was remarkable to witness firsthand.
As the day began to wind down, we made our way to the unique Buža Bar, which is literally carved into the cliffs beneath the city walls. This special spot offered us both a place to swim and a perfect vantage point for watching the sunset over the Adriatic. After relaxing by the water, we returned to Dubrovnik Old Town Square to experience the magical atmosphere of the historic center illuminated at night. The Clock Tower stood as a glowing sentinel in the square, its 31-meter height and distinctive bell creating a timeless scene. Walking through the smooth stone streets in the evening light gave us a completely different perspective on this UNESCO World Heritage site, with the cooler air and gentle lighting enhancing the sense of stepping back in time.
We spent the afternoon visiting Mostar’s iconic Old Bridge (Stari Most), a remarkable 16th-century structure and UNESCO World Heritage site that gracefully spans the turquoise waters of the Neretva River. Standing on this elegant single-arch stone bridge, we appreciated both its beauty and its symbolic importance as a connection between the city’s diverse communities. From various angles, we captured spectacular views of the emerald river flowing beneath us. The bridge’s impressive architecture and historical significance made it clear why this is considered the must-see landmark in Mostar.
We immersed ourselves in the bustling atmosphere of Mostar’s Old Town, wandering along its charming cobblestone streets surrounded by Ottoman-era architecture. The historic quarter revealed several notable sights including the distinctive Tara Tower. We found a perfect spot for a break at Konoba Mlinica, where umbrella-shaded terraces positioned us perfectly to admire the centuries-old stone buildings and vibrant marketplace atmosphere. The blend of cultures was evident everywhere we looked, from the architectural styles to the crafts for sale in the small shops we passed.
We concluded our day along Šibenik’s Riva waterfront promenade, arriving just in time to watch the setting sun cast a golden glow across the Adriatic Sea. This peaceful coastal stretch provided an ideal vantage point to observe fishing boats returning to harbor as the day wound down. We strolled along the water’s edge as the sky transformed through beautiful shades of amber and purple, all perfectly reflected in the calm waters of Šibenik Bay. After a full day of exploration, this tranquil evening scene was the perfect way to unwind.
